We are indeed much more than what we eat; but what we eat can nevertheless help us be much more than what we are. — Adele Davis

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Tasting Notes & Recipes
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I feel very fortunate that there is a fabulous farmer’s market in town that has some of the best local foods available, all from within a 30-mile radius. As the school year has been winding down, it is even a greater pleasure to be able to enjoy a sun-filled afternoon at the outdoor market with good friends, good wine, and good food. I love stumbling upon unique finds and meeting local farmers who are truly engaged in their products and customers.

Coniglio alla Ligure Recipe

Preparation Time: 2 hours
Serves 6

Ingredients

Tools

• Large dutch oven
• Chef knife (meat carving knife preferred)
• Cooking twine
• Wooden spoon
• Measuring cup
• Tongs

Selina’s Tips

• The olives are very important and should not be substituted with another variety
• Rossese di Dolceacqua is the best wine for cooking and pairing this dish and is what makes it truly Ligurian
• The rabbit pieces should be browned on a single layer; do not overcrowd! Make a half portion of the recipe if needed.

If Italy had contributed nothing but pasta dishes to the world of cuisine, it would have been sufficient for immortality. — Craig Claiborne

Spring has finally arrived in upstate New York! It’s about time. Today it was sunny, 70+ degrees Fahrenheit, just like the way it should be at this time of year. In any case, with spring comes produce that have made a comeback to remind us that life isn’t all about winter vegetables, though I do appreciate squash and the like. Fresh basil is finally back in full force, especially thanks to Finger Lakes Fresh, a local hydroponics greenhouse that produces lovely, fragrant bundles of basil right at my fingertips.

While I am living my day to day life in beautiful Ithaca, New York, I often dream about visiting the Northern Italian region of Liguria, where my other half is from. It has a remarkable resemblance to California in terms of climate and rich agriculture. Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the Alps, it’s a land of stark contrasts and beautiful sceneries, where farmers have carved every possible inch of land out of the steep hills to create masterful terraces where they have grown some of their best treasures for centuries, among which olives and basil reign supreme. Among rabbits and wild boar, Sanremo shrimps and breams, there is something that’s truly Ligurian and that blends the best ingredients of the region: pesto! A perfect combination of extra virgin olive oil, pignolia nuts (from the numerous pine trees found on the hills of the area), basil, garlic and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, this worldwide-appreciated sauce is as timeless as the flavors associated with this beautiful stretch of land.

Because spring is in the air, and because Italy is on my mind, I chose to highlight the freshness of basil pesto using Barilla Tortellini, topped with tender crisp green beans, potatoes, and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano — authenticity and simplicity at its finest. This can easily be served with a basic salad, such as mixed greens or arugula lightly dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, salt & pepper. To complement such a wonderful burst of flavors, a fine wine pairing is a rich and bright white wine from Sardinia, Argiola Costamolino Vermentino Di Sardegna. This pairing works particularly well given that the varietal Vermentino is the most-grown grape in Liguria, where it’s known as Pigato. Buon Appetito!

Tortellini al Pesto alla Genovese Recipe

Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients

• 35 basil leaves (large bunch)
• 1 garlic clove
• 1/3 cup pignolia nuts
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for finishing
• Salt
• 2 cups green beans, halved
• 2 cups potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 package Barilla Tortellini (12 ounces), Cheese & Spinach variety found in the dried pasta section

Preparation

1. Begin to boil large pot of water. Meanwhile, prepare pesto: Add basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, and salt to a food processor/blender and pulse grind until smooth. Add Parmigiano and pulse grind again to combine.
2. Once water comes to boil, liberally salt water and add potatoes. Boil for 5 minutes, and then add green beans. Boil for an additional 5 minutes and drain with a slotted spoon.
3. Using the same pot of water, add dried tortellini and boil for about 9 minutes. Drain separately and divide equally into platters.
4. For each platter, gently combine tortellini with 2 tablespoons of pesto sauce. Top with potatoes, green beans, and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Tools

• Large stockpot
• Food processor
• Cheese grater
• Chef knife
• Slotted spoon
• Colanders (2)

Buon cibo, buon vino, buoni amici – Unknown

When there’s a blizzard outside, having warmth, good food, wine, and company is priceless. A fireplace adds a nice touch as well. There are many foods that comfort the soul, but today’s choice is heavily influenced by my favorite person in the world who happens to come from Italy and knows a thing or two about pasta. Bucatini all’Amatriciana is a Roman dish that is very rich, but in a sensible and savory way that doesn’t weigh you down.  The Romans are well known for their conviviality and time well spent with friends and family, and these attributes are inherently well reflected in this dish.

Be prepared to indulge in a cornucopia of intense flavors: the underlying depth of onion and garlic, smoked aroma of pancetta, sweet and concentrated tomatoes, and boldness of the red wine…all lightly topped with aged and briny cheese. In the midst of this complexity, there is surprisingly an element of simplicity that is almost indefinable, but trust me, it exists. Perhaps this simplicity comes from the utmost importance of having quality ingredients – reputable pasta, San Marzano tomatoes, pure extra virgin olive oil, and the like. While ingredients are easy to swap and substitute, the final product is compensated as such. In other words, don’t skimp!

Bucatini all’Amatriciana Recipe

Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Serves 2

Ingredients

• 8 ounces dried bucatini pasta (preferably Divella brand)
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, slightly crushed
• 1/2 medium onion, finely diced
• 4 ounces pancetta affumicata (smoked), chopped
• 14 ounces canned whole San Marzano tomatoes
• 1 chicken bouillon cube
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon dried basil
• 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1/4 cup full body red wine (optional, but recommended)
• Grated Parmigiano Reggiano, to taste

Preparation

1. Bring large pot of water to boil for bucatini and cook according to package, approximately 6-7 minutes for al dente.  Salt water right before adding pasta. Meanwhile, begin to prepare garlic, onion, and pancetta.
2. Heat olive oil in saucepan to medium high heat. Add onions, garlic, and pancetta and sauté until onions are translucent and pancetta is lightly browned, about 4 minutes.
3. Add tomatoes to the pan and crush tomatoes with fork and wooden spoon. Add bouillon cubes, salt & pepper, and dried basil. Let sauce simmer over medium heat and reduce until nicely thickened, about 10 minutes. Add red wine and red pepper flakes and simmer for another 5 minutes.
4. Add pasta to sauce evenly toss to coat. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano to taste.

[Crushing tomatoes with fork and spoon...]

Tools

• Large stock pot
• Chef knife
• Sauté pan
• Wooden spoon
• Fork
• Colander
• Grater

Selina’s Notes

• During the summer, seasonal fresh chopped basil is preferred
• Red wine options can include full bodied wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon,  Zinfandel, Chianti, etc. The added benefit is that you can enjoy it during your meal!

Buon Appetito

Feeding people graciously and lovingly is one of life’s simplest pleasures: a most basic way of making life better for someone at least for awhile. — Anna Thomas

Black bean sauce reminds me of traditional Cantonese home-style cooking. I grew up having a variety of dishes made with black beans and black bean sauce, including fish, clams, chicken, spare ribs; it’s a simple go-to ingredient for a quick stir-fry or a steam. If you’ve never had it before, it’s very pungent, briny, and aromatic.  The black beans are really fermented soy beans, giving the sauce a unique intense flavor that kind of jumps in your mouth.

I’ve been experimenting with using black bean sauce in a chicken and bell pepper combination for a few years. You may or may not find this in a restaurant, but to me, it’s an easy and quick comfort food dish that reminds me of home. It’s also best served with freshly steamed rice on the side, which perfectly complements and lightens the intensity of the sauce.

Black Bean Chicken and Peppers Recipe

Preparation Time: Approximately 20 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients

• 3/4 pound skinless, boneless chicken thigh, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon oil, divided
• 3 teaspoons corn starch, divided
• 2 teaspoons water
• 2 tablespoons black bean garlic sauce (e.g., Lee Kum Kee brand)
• 1 stalk scallion, thinly sliced
• Handful of cilantro, coarsely chopped

Preparation

1. Marinate chicken: In a mixing bowl, add soy sauce, sugar, 1 teaspoon oil, and 1 teaspoon corn starch into chicken. Stir to combine.
2. Prepare quick gravy: Mix remaining corn starch and water; set aside.
3. Stir-fry: Heat oil over medium-high to high heat in a pan until oil is nearly steamy. Gently add black bean garlic sauce and quickly stir for 5-10 seconds. Add chicken and stir-fry (chow!) for 2 minutes or until halfway cooked. Add peppers and stir until chicken is fully cooked and peppers are crisp tender, about 4 minutes. Add corn starch gravy mixture and cook for an additional minute.
4. Garnish with scallions and cilantro. Serve immediately with steamed rice.

Tools

• Mixing bowl
• Small bowl
• Wok or sauté pan
• Spatula or wooden spoon

Selina’s Notes

• Wear an apron or something that you don’t mind getting splattered on! The sauce tends to splatter during the stir-fry step.
• You may substitute and/or supplement bell peppers with onions and white button mushrooms.
• I don’t recommend using more than the 3/4 pounds of chicken in one batch. The more chicken in the wok, the less smoky wok flavor it gives off. The same concept applies when pan-searing meats; overcrowding is never a good thing!

You may be wondering, what exactly is Chinese broccoli? It is kind of a cross between the common broccoli and kale — it has dark leafy greens and thick stems that are tender and crisp when cooked. If the broccoli is not as fresh or has aged, the stems become somewhat bitter, my least favorite part as a kid (actually even now). My mother tells me that Chinese broccoli is best and ‘sweetest’ in the winter because that is when it gets the most rainfall.

For nostalgic purposes, I have a clear childhood memory of eating at a local Chinese restaurant, Seafood House (that was the name at the time…it no longer exists), at 25th and El Camino Real in San Mateo, CA. My family would go to this place at least once a month because the food was decent and we were familiar with the wait staff there. It was kind of safe haven on any given weekend day that we didn’t feel like cooking. One time, a table near us wanted to order beef broccoli, but only with the regular type of broccoli, not gai-lan. To their astonishment, the restaurant didn’t have regular broccoli, so they ended up leaving. As a kid, I was utterly confused by the entire scene, but I moved on (yet I still remember it to this day).

Back to the matter at hand — preparing Chinese beef broccoli is very similar to its American counterpart. The beef stir-fry process is essentially the same, and the only small differences are in the broccoli preparation. To get the broccoli ready for cooking, it is important to trim the ends to rid any chewiness in the stems. I typically use a paring knife to individually trim each stem, because sometimes not all stems are created equal If you’re in a hurry, though, feel free to trim by the bunch. Also, it’s important to wash gai-lan thoroughly in a water bath as there could be dirt or little critters hidden in the leaves (let’s hope not). Sometimes my mother would add a little salt to the water bath to aid the process.

Perfect Chinese Beef Broccoli  Recipe

Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4-6

Ingredients

• 1 pound Chinese broccoli (about 1 bunch), washed thoroughly, ends trimmed, roughly cut into 2-3 inch pieces
• 1/2 pound flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain (about 1 inch long should be bite-sized)
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon canola oil
• 1 teaspoon corn starch
• Salt and pepper
• Dash of baking soda
• 3 tablespoons canola oil, divided
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon ginger, grated
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, plus more as necessary
• 1 tablespoon rice wine (Chia Fan brand)

Tools

• Medium mixing bowl
• Chef knife and cutting board
• Paring knife
• Medium stock pot
• Colander
• Skillet or wok
• Tongs or wooden spoon

Preparation

1. Pre-work: Before handling the meat, bring a medium stock pot of water to a boil. Divide the flank steak into 1-inch sections along the lengthy fibers (see below). Thinly slice each section against the grain, about ¼ inches each slice, and place into mixing bowl. Toss beef together with soy sauce, sugar, 1 teaspoon oil, and corn starch. Let it marinate until broccoli prep is done.
2. Prepare the Chinese broccoli as described above.
3. Blanch ‘n fry: Add a dash of baking soda to the water bath (for tenderness). Place Chinese broccoli in boiling water and blanch until water comes to a light boil again. Promptly drain in colander (no need to rinse with cold water here). It’s a very quick dip in the hot tub here. Heat skillet on high heat with 1 tablespoon oil and a pinch of salt. When oil comes to a smoking point (it should be fragrant at this point), toss in broccoli and stir constantly for about 20-30 seconds. Add a scant dash of oyster sauce and toss. Transfer to a serving plate and reserve.
4. Beef time: In the same heated skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add garlic and ginger and vigorously stir for 5 seconds to avoid burning. Immediately add in marinated beef, followed by oyster sauce as soon as beef changes color (semi pink, semi brown at this point). Stir fry until beef is almost all browned. Lightly season with course black pepper. Finish the beef with rice wine; sauce should thicken at this point. Remove from heat and pour over cooked broccoli. Serve with hot steamed rice.

Selina’s Notes

• You will notice that this is virtually the same recipe as Perfect Beef Broccoli, only with a few modifications to accommodate Chinese broccoli.
• Be careful not to overcook the beef because carry over cooking is quite common after food is removed from the heat source. However, I generally have a preference for medium-rare to medium cooked beef…

For me, beef broccoli is one of my staple comfort foods that I have shared with family, friends, and coworkers over the last several years. It has been a big hit at potlucks, dinner parties, date night, bring-to-work lunch, and dinner-for-one. It seems to be well liked by most (except for vegetarians – sorry my friends!), even those who aren’t so fond of (or familiar with) Chinese food.

The recipe here is my very own, and I cannot find anything else closely similar to it on the Internet. I have typically seen recipes that combine both beef and broccoli in the wok to incorporate the sauce. Some recipes even call for an entire cup of oil using ingredient quantities just slightly above mine – no wonder Chinese food is often plagued by the image of being greasy. My version separates the beef and broccoli until the very last minute, and it is also lighter on the oil. The end result: crisp, vibrant, green broccoli topped with perfectly tender, flavorful slices of beef steak, all without being drowned in gloppy sauce. There is definitely sauce, of course, but just not in an excessive amount. If you’re a fan of *gulp* Panda Express or PF Chang’s, you will boycott their versions.

It was a challenge writing this recipe because it is definitely one that I eyeball and go off my memory, as if I can do this in my sleep. You know, a little dabble of this, and a couple splashes of that kind of thing. Fear not, though – the process is very simple once you get used to it.

Beef Broccoli Recipe

Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Serves 2

Ingredients

• 1/2 pound flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain (about 1 inch long should be bite-sized)
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon canola oil
• 1 teaspoon corn starch
• Salt and pepper
• 2 heads of broccoli (florets and trimmed stems), about 4 cups
• 3 tablespoons canola oil, divided
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon ginger, grated
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice wine (Chia Fan brand)

Tools

• Medium mixing bowl
• Chef knife and cutting board
• Paring knife
• Medium stock pot
• Colander
• Skillet or wok
• Tongs or wooden spoon

Preparation

1. Pre-work: Before handling the meat, bring a medium stock pot of water to a boil. Divide the flank steak into 1-inch sections along the lengthy fibers (see below). Thinly slice each section against the grain, about ¼ inches each slice, and place into mixing bowl. Toss beef together with soy sauce, sugar, 1 teaspoon oil, and corn starch. Let it marinate until broccoli prep is done.

   

   

2. Prep the broccoli by cutting about an inch off the tough part of the stem. Using a paring knife, peel away the tough layer off the stems and florets. The florets should be bite size, and the trimmed stems should be thin for even cooking.
   
3. Blanch ‘n fry: Place broccoli in boiling water and blanch until water comes to a light boil again. Promptly drain in colander (no need to rinse with cold water here). It’s a very quick dip in the hot tub here.



Heat the skillet on high heat with 1 tablespoon oil and a pinch of salt. When oil comes to a smoking point (it should be fragrant at this point), toss in broccoli and stir constantly for about 15-20 seconds. Transfer to a serving plate and reserve.

In the same heated skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add garlic and ginger and vigorously stir for 5 seconds to avoid burning. Immediately add in marinated beef, followed by oyster sauce as soon as beef changes color (semi pink, semi brown at this point). Stir fry until beef is almost all browned. Lightly season with course black pepper. Finish the beef with rice wine; sauce should thicken at this point. Remove from heat and pour over cooked broccoli.

The final product:

A meal like this cannot be complete without steamed white or brown rice to go with it, right?

Now that’s more like it. Enjoy!

Selina’s Notes

• Once the ingredients are all prepared, this is a very quick cooking dish. To prep in advance, you may wash and cut broccoli beforehand. The beef can also be marinated overnight, but without the corn starch until ready to cook. If the corn starch is left in overnight, it will harden.
• If you’re doubling the recipe, the broccoli can be cooked in a double batch during the blanch ‘n fry step. However, I’d suggest cooking the beef in two batches.
• Most people will not peel the tough portion off the florets, especially in restaurants because it takes  longer to prep. However, my mother taught me to cut broccoli this way because the outer layer is chewy and takes longer to cook otherwise.

I registered for the restaurant’s monthly paella cooking class with the intent of getting hands-on experience making paella from scratch. Little did I know, I arrived finding out that the class was more of a demonstration session by one of the chefs while the audience was served a six course brunch. I was slightly disappointed. Plus, having four different types of wine to pair with the courses before noon was quite ambitious even though I adore wine. Chef Cottini began the class by providing the audience with a brief background and history on paella, along with describing several of its main ingredients. He then verbally polled the audience by asking questions like “Who has ever eaten tapas?” and “Who has ever eaten paella?” About 90% of the crowd raised their hands for the first two questions. The final question was “Who has ever made paella?” All hands fell, yet mine shyly remained risen. Hmm…okay, now what. “Well then, you get to come cook paella with me!” Before I knew it, I was cooking side by side with him, shadowing his every step. It was totally uncalled for, but what a thrill!

According to the Paella cookbook that was given for us to keep, the word “Paella” defines the utensil used to cook the dish: a flat bottom, lidless frying pan without the “tail”, yet with two handles, and many little dents or “dimples” in a circular pattern that are essential for cooking the rice and achieving authentic and traditional flavors. I bought one from Cafe Iberico’s deli for a bargain price of $10:

The recipe below is adapted from the Paella Cookbook, created by the executive chefs of Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba. Some of the key ingredients that truly make the dish outstanding are saffron, Spanish rice (medium grain), and chicken stock. The saffron creates a luscious, deep golden color in the rice, with a floral fragrance unlike any other spice, therefore being the most expensive spice in the world. Rice and stock are also essential to paella because the Spanish rice variety absorbs liquids extremely well, allowing the stock to add flavor and depth without the grains getting mushy like risotto. The flavor complexity of paella is simply amazing.

Paella Valenciana Recipe

Preparation time: 35 minutes (5 minutes ingredients preparation, 10 minutes stovetop, 20 minutes oven and rest)
Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 2/3 cup pork tenderloin, diced
• 2/3 cup boneless skinless chicken thighs, diced
• 1 teaspoon garlic, minced (about 1 clove)
• 1 teaspoon sweet pimenton (paprika)
• ½ cup tomato puree
• 1 ¼ cup Spanish rice
• 1/8 teaspoon saffron, simmered in 4 ounces of water and removed from heat to cool
• 1 cup frozen Italian green beans
• 4 cups low-sodium chicken stock, heated but not boiling
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon salt (or more, to taste)

Tools

• Oven
• Small saucepan (for saffron water)
• Medium saucepan (for chicken stock)
• Chef knife and cutting board
• 13 inch paella pan
• Tongs or wooden spoon

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Bring chicken stock to a simmer and keep warm.
2. In the paella pan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear the pork and chicken together until golden brown (do not move the meat around too much; allow to sear on each side to get a good color).
3. Add the garlic, sweet pimenton, and tomato puree; mix to combine. While constantly stirring, add the Spanish rice, saffron water, snap peas, and chicken stock. Continue cooking until the rice begins to rise. Add fresh thyme and rosemary sprigs; season with salt and bring to a boil. At this point you may taste the cooking liquid and adjust seasonings as needed.
4. Place pan in the oven for 17 minutes, until liquid is mostly absorbed into the rice. Before serving, let it rest for at least 2 minutes to allow rice to finish absorbing the liquid completely. Remove thyme and rosemary sprigs before serving.

Selina’s Notes

• It is best to use homemade chicken stock (recipe coming later), but store-bought cartons are fine too, as long as it is the low-sodium type
• To get a nice crunchy, caramelized crust on the edges and bottom (like the kind on brownies and lasagna), you can try returning the paella to the stove over high heat immediately after coming out of the oven. After 1-2 minutes, remove from heat and allow time for paella to rest.
• The first ten minutes of the recipe (before going into the oven) moves quickly. I found it easiest to measure out all ingredients and arrange in groups before beginning.
• Spanish cooking tools and ingredients can be purchased at Tienda and PaellaPans

The version below is my own variation of fried rice I learned from my mother in my childhood days. It is also very ‘vanilla’ because the ingredients are fairly basic and ordinary. Learning the method is foundational; once the process is down, the possibilities are endless. Since it only takes 10 minutes, it is meat-free and the eggs are what I call freestyle (in the normal version, I neatly dice the eggs after being cooked pancake-omelet style). Of course, if you happen to have deli meat or other prepared meat on hand, throw it on in! Cooking fried rice is a time to be creative.

A quick background behind this recipe – I love the concept of quick cooking (e.g., 30-Minute Meals) when the situation calls for it, and I was put up to the test one day when Sean called me on his way home from work: “I’m going to be home in 15 minutes. Is there anything to eat?” I perused the pantry and fridge and told him I’d figure something out. Sure enough, there was a bowl of leftover white rice and a carton of eggs in the fridge. The freezer was also stocked with peas and carrots (I don’t know when it isn’t!). Hence, 10-minute fried rice came to life. It’s slightly sweet from the peas, carrots, and oyster sauce, yet savory from the eggs and rice. The oyster and soy sauces also give the fried rice an earthy, golden color. Enjoy!

10-Minute Fried Rice Recipe

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1 cup frozen peas and carrots mix, unthawed
• Salt and pepper
• 3 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 3 tablespoons canola oil, divided
• 2 cups cooked long-grain white rice (preferably jasmine)
• 2 tablespoons oyster flavored sauce (preferably Lee Kum Kee brand; vegetarian variety available)
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce (preferably Kikkoman brand)
• 2 stalks scallion, finely sliced at a diagonal (optional)
• ¼ cup finely chopped cilantro (optional)

Tools

• Chef knife and cutting board
• Large wok (or skillet)
• Wooden spoon
• 2 small mixing bowls

Preparation

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in wok on high. When oil is almost visibly steaming, add frozen peas and carrot mix and stir frequently. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes until vegetables are heated through and tender. Transfer to a bowl and reserve.
2. Using the same wok, adjust heat to medium-high and bring remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and a pinch of salt to a steaming point. Toss in cooked rice and stir frequently to avoid sticking. Immediately add oyster sauce and soy sauce and mix until well distributed.
3. Add in reserved peas and carrots and beaten eggs and stir until eggs are cooked and ingredients are well combined, about 3 minutes. Stir in scallions and cilantro if desired.